What if I don’t have any issues with using either fluorocarbon or mono, why do I need to switch?
You don’t. Some anglers do just fine spooling up with fluorocarbon and of course, many bass have been caught with your basic mono line. I just always felt I am much more efficient and happy using braid-leader setup.
How long should my leaders be?
That depends on how often you intend to retie, how much of a shock effect do you want your leader to have and what size of guides you are using on your rod. In general, the answer is that the leader knot comes up just short of going into the reel. If I’m using a rod with micro-guides, then I’ll either use a short leader that doesn’t enter the guides or (most likely) I won’t try to tie leader onto rods with the smallest micro-guides. Really, I don’t use any of those rods, so it’s not an issue.
Why isn’t using 30# braid better than 50#?
30# braid digs into itself on the spool too easily, especially after catching a fish or getting your bait
Do you always use the same knot to connect the leader to the braid?
Do you use glue on your leader to braid knots?
I do at times. I have good luck with this stuff. To be honest, I haven’t really tested my knots with vs without the glue. The glue does seem to give it a bit of a smoother, slick coating so the little tag ends don’t catch on guides as much. But I’ve also tied on many leaders without any glue and haven’t noticed any issues. A good knot is the most important thing. Pull really hard when cinching that knot down (protect your hands) and if it looks good and survives a good pull, then you should be fine – with or without the glue.
How does using braid on all your reels affect your rod selection?
Think “moderate” to “mod-fast” when it comes to rod actions. A slower action rod does not mean it cannot be powerful. Back-off at least 1 level on your rod speeds/actions. This will help you with your casting distance and accuracy as well. Stay away from “extra-fast” rod actions for sure.