ACTIVITY Forums Rods, Reels, Line Going all braid

  • Going all braid

     Craig updated 4 years, 5 months ago 7 Members · 15 Posts
  • Don

    Administrator
    March 8, 2017 at 10:00 am

    Wondering how many of you do this? I’ve been using braid with some leaders the past 4 or 5 years. Curious if this is the norm yet.

  • Jeff McBroom

    Member
    March 8, 2017 at 7:31 pm

    For clarification are you saying that your running braid on all [most] aplications or are you saying when using braid are people using straight braid or braid/ leader?

    About the same time frame as you I tried going to mostly braid/leader applications. I lost fish in tournaments that cost me money. Now admittedly in hindsight I recognize that it was partially my fault. I was using mainline fluorocarbon and not leader fluorocarbon —big difference. After going to leader material break offs were much less. I’m now using strictly leader in my carolina-rigs as well now. Can’t remember the last time I lost a fish because of the line breaking.
    The single biggest issue I have with braid in our area us wind/current. That’s probably the biggest reason I’ve gone back to fluorocarbon (Seaguar Abrazx). The wind mores my line too much and keeps the lure too high in the water column. But I’ve also been trying out a couple different lines as of last year. Berkley nanofill and Sunline defier. The Berkley has some of the same benefits as braid and has some useful applications. The Sunline Defier is an awesome line. “Delivers the suspension of a monofilament coupled with low stretch of a fluorocarbon”. Its a thin diameter line, super tough but limber, low stretch, and great color. Grear for topwater, cranks, ect.

  • Jeff McBroom

    Member
    March 8, 2017 at 7:37 pm

    So now the qustions:
    1. When flipping (using braid) do you ever use a fluoro leader?
    2. If yes, under what circumstances?
    3. What pound braid/leader do you use when throwing flukes? Why?

  • Don

    Administrator
    March 8, 2017 at 9:37 pm

    I almost always use a flouro leader when flipping/pitching. The only circumstances I don’t is if I’m in really thick matted vegetation, which isn’t to often around here. I don’t mean some tulles kinda laid over or matted on talking the kinda stuff it takes 1.5-2 oz to get through. Otherwise, I mostly use a 20# flouro leader material leader.

    Flukes: I use a 10-15 lb braid/superline/nano main line and a 10# flouro leader (leader material again). I feel like this combo does a little of everything. Casts well, is tough, absorbs some shock, cuts down of some visibility, floats where I want it to float and sinks where I want it to sink and most important it just works well. I’ve tried many combos the last 20 years for the fluke and this is the best I’ve tried. But this next year, I could be onto something else.

  • Jeff McBroom

    Member
    March 10, 2017 at 9:23 am

    I agree with you about the vegetation we have on most of our bodies of water (for flipping/pitching). There are instances on Potholes where I’m using straight 50lb braid but for most other applications I’ve went to using 20lb fluorocarbon–so far I’ve no issues.
    How long of leader are u using for your flipping /pitching applications? What brand of braid are you using on your fluke application?

  • Don

    Administrator
    March 11, 2017 at 10:37 am

    I’m using a 5-6′ leader for flip/pitch. I’m using all sorts of braid for flukes. Nano is the best performing, but I also find myself using Power Pro Slick and recently the J-Braid

  • Jeff McBroom

    Member
    March 12, 2017 at 5:45 pm

    So I’m curious as to your view of the benefit of flipping/pitching with a braid and leader setup as opposed to straight 20 lb fluorocarbon (on our type of water)??
    I guess one thing might be that not all 20-25lb fluorocarbon is all that nimble and easy to manage–but there are some much better than others. A little less stretch I guess but don’t feel like we have to make super long cast for this application.
    The plus side for straight 20 is one less knot out if the equation.
    Your thoughts?

  • Tim Tadlock

    Member
    March 13, 2017 at 7:58 am

    What brand of leader are you two having the most luck with. I have been using Toray but it is very expensive.

  • Don

    Administrator
    March 13, 2017 at 8:05 am

    I use the PLine Shinsei (which is leader material)

  • Jeff McBroom

    Member
    March 13, 2017 at 5:26 pm

    I use PLine Shinsei as well. I’ve had really good luck with it.

  • Kent

    Member
    March 13, 2017 at 6:56 pm

    I just started using braid/leader combo last years so Im still experimenting with it all but for flippin/pitchin its either straight braid ( stain water ) or straight floro ( clear water ) for me. Other techniques I use the combo on most.

  • Ron

    Member
    March 21, 2017 at 3:55 am

    I am sold on braid to flourocarbon on spinning rods other than my drop shot rods, most of the time. I mostly use straight flourocarbon on my drop shot rods unless I am fishing a lot of grass. In my opinion the extra stretch helps keep the fish pinned with those little hooks. I have power pro on my all purpose spinning reels right now 8 pound test on most of them and 15 pound on my “meat stick” spinning rod so I can use up to 15 pound leader material. I use mainly Sunline super sniper or Seaguar InvizX.
    I am not sold at all on braid on my flipping sticks. I actually don’t like it on my flipping sticks, no matter the knot it’s a pain, and another “hit” point to contact cover or tangle on branches, weeds etc. The best attributes of braid are the worst for me when fishing any hard cover including trees, especially Russian Olives, willows, beaver huts, and tules. My experience is that the thinner diameter and how limp the line is if you get any slack when throwing INTO trees brush etc. the wind will catch your line and tangle and snag it in every little branch thorn etc. making it a complete pain in the rump. A couple examples of the thin diameter being bad is that with no stretch, thin diameter, and it not being super smooth, if it was smooth it wouldn’t make a noise going through your guides ( manifold is way different) it will cut into wood and branches instead of just sliding over or around and tipping or pushing these objects away. I lost a 8+ flipping into tiles because instead of my line pushing over the reeds it actually cut into the reeds pinning the fish into the reeds until it twisted off. I feel the flourocarbon would have just knocked them over and the line being slippery not rough would have slid off. On many occasions my braid has cut into wood, especially the soft stuff pinning fish to branches and beaver wood, even though I can’t remember any memorable lost fish stories I feel it will eventually happen with me. The last thing is I like setting the hook and Inlike using stout rods, with braid I don’t feel like my same rods would be good, I would think I would have to compensate for the no stretch with softer action rods to prevent from losing fish.
    I am sold on Sunline Shooter 25 and 22 for most of my flipping pitching and punching duties outside of straight soft vegetation.
    As far as my other baitcasting rods, I use straight flourocarbon for my “touch” techniques unless I am dragging deep (30+) football heads or ball and chain. Reaction baits all get tried and true Maxima ultra green in varying pound tests.

  • Ron

    Member
    March 21, 2017 at 4:01 am

    I used the nanofil a couple years ago, did you have problems tying consistent junction knots with it? I loved the stuff when I could get a knot tied it casts farther than anything I have ever seen it was amazing, but getting a good knot tied was another story for me. Seemed like it would take me a good 5 to 10 tries before one would actually hold, and is the reason that spinning reel spool found its way into the shelf in the tackle room.

  • Bob Hogue

    Moderator
    March 22, 2017 at 5:06 pm

    Here’s what I’ve settled on for smallmouth, spinning reels, line: nanofil or gliss 8 to 10 lb hi vis line, no leader material, one knot (usually a trilene knot). If a swivel is necessary, then use a Decoy open end swivel that attaches (crimped) directly to the hook. This maintains the following: no wind knots (hurrah), no extra knots like junction knots, no line twist. I’ll usually just clip off a couple of feet every few days to keep things nick-free. Last year I used black sharpie (oil) to darken the last three feet of line, just because it made me feel better. I plan on doing a lot of experimenting with bait casting lines this year. But the spinning reel experiments did NOT effect catch rates even a little bit. Hard to get old practices out of the head though, right?

  • Craig

    Member
    April 4, 2017 at 8:01 am

    Bob, I recently tried the all braid (Gliss) without a leader for smallmouth. I saw I was getting terrible line twist with a flouro leader and it was destroying my braid with jigs and tubes! I switched like you stated above and used a sharpie to blacken the bottom 3 feet. Incredible how much more you can feel every bump on the bottom and I believe it had no negative effect on my success. I still use all flouro for my dropshot setup.

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